Japanese food was once derided, but it’s now in the canon of haute cuisine, says author Krishnendu Ray. How we value a culture’s cuisine in our society, he says, often reflects the status of those who cook it.
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Hunting down that obscure Vietnamese place that serves up bánh bao exactly like you’d find in Hanoi, or an Indian joint with dal just like the one you had on that trip to New Delhi, is a not uncommon pursuit in these food-obsessed days. But our culinary hunt for “authentic ethnic” food can be a double-edged sword, says Krishnendu Ray.